Camp Schurman 9440', ~1:30 AM, July 3, 2018.
It finally happened! The expedition leader signaled us to get out of our tents. It was time to step into crampons, pick up our ice axes, form rope teams, and begin our summit push. I peeked outside the tent, only to find our boots and equipment buried in snow. It had been snowing since dusk and there was no sign of it stopping then. I instantly pictured how this was going to end. I was heartbroken.
I had been in such a weather situation before. 8 months ago I had turned back from Ingraham Flats (11000’) due to wintry conditions. After months of training and spending thousands of dollars, I had experienced the harsh reality that some things are not in one's control.
But here I was attempting to climb Mt. Rainier again, through another route, by ascending the Emmons Glacier — the largest glacier in the lower 48 states. And yet again the weather was not my friend. So much for not giving up on my dream.
“It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.”―Ernest Hemingway
My journey up to Camp Schurman was eventful, to say the least. During the 6 months leading up to the climb, I worked out regularly, biked twice a week at the gym, and climbed Mt.Diablo with heavy packs 8 times in 4 months. I learned essential mountaineering skills. I learned how to set up camp on snow. I met amazing fellow climbers and guides. I was in the best shape of my life.
There were a few close calls too. 30 mins into the start of the expedition from White River campground (4400’), I saw Mt.Rainier for the first time since I arrived in Washington 3 days ago. With heavily crevassed slopes and the lenticular cloud-covered summit, Mt.Rainier was daunting. It made me question my sanity for signing up to climb it. By the time I recovered from the negative thoughts and hiked up another mile, the waist strap of my backpack snapped, resting 50 pounds of gear on my shoulders. If not for the guides who fixed it using plastic zip ties, it might have been the end of the expedition for me. Before I reached Camp Schurman, I rested for a night on the slopes of Inter Glacier (7800’). The next morning I dropped my water bottle which slid down the glacier and went out of sight. Again, thanks to the guide who retrieved it for me.
All in all, hauling 50 pounds to Camp Schurman was a great experience and I had no regret, whatsoever, chasing my dream.
“Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go.” — T.S.Eliot
Back at Camp Schurman, when I was heartbroken picturing how it was going to end, I hadn’t a clue that I was on the cusp of a major life-changing experience.
It was a very cold night with high winds and snow. Among the many climbing parties at Camp Schurman, we were the only ones to venture out. The guides decided to climb “The Corridor” (a wide tract approximately 30 degrees, that ascends to 11200’) and evaluate the situation once we get there. Since we did not have an extra day, this was the best we could try without compromising safety.
After 2 long hours, our party of 4 guides and 7 climbers reached the end of the corridor. Our attempt was massively rewarded as we found ourselves above the clouds. The weather was now on our side.
I had a big decision to make — it was a very cold day and it was going to be a harder than usual climb. I had to evaluate myself and make a decision if I wanted to go further or turn back now. Once we climb further, above 11000', either all the rope teams make the summit or all of them turn back. While I badly wanted to continue, I was afraid of committing and letting the team down. With some encouraging words from the guide and half a bottle of Gatorade, I was confident that I could do it. Unfortunately, 2 climbers made the hard decision of turning around with a guide.
The path to the summit is never a straight line. There are too many factors that are out of one’s control. Crevasses can show up anywhere, and at any time, requiring the climbers to take a longer route around them or in some cases turn back. Weather conditions can change without warning. Rockfalls and ice-falls frequent the slopes. They are so common that a section of the route is named “Bowling Alley”—rock and debris roll at the climbers like a bowling ball towards the pins. Chances of success and survival increase drastically when you are with a guide.
Walking on steep glaciers requires the ability to stay focused for hours on end. I had to place one foot in front of the other, dig into the glacier with the crampons and confidently rest my weight on it for the entirety of the climb. All the physical training at the gym and mental training climbing Mt.Diablo with a heavy pack helped immensely.
It was the 10 ft snow wall below the summit that broke me. I was the last one to climb it and the fear in me was not letting me trust the crampons with all my weight. As a result, I was slipping and scrambling in vain. I was disappointed in myself and feeling bad that I am making my team wait. Nothing seemed to work. After many attempts and what seemed like an eternity, my rope team managed to pull me up. I have always valued team but at that moment I realized how crucial it is to have a dependable team. I also realized how important it is for everyone in the team to play an A-game as it can mean life or death for the entire team.
Once over the hurdle, a few mins of climbing took me to the next rest stop. View of the summit, a bar of Twix, and some more Gatorade made the gentle climb to the summit much easier. As I neared the summit after 6 long hours of climbing, tears started flowing down my eyes. I had no control over it and I cried for a good few minutes. It was a deeply emotional experience.
With a prominence of 13,210 ft (4,026 m), Mt.Rainier is the 21st most prominent peak in the world. In other words, the expansive views from the summit are unparalleled. I was lucky to be on top of it on one of the most beautiful days with the bluest sky.
It was not over yet. Summiting the mountain is optional but coming back down safely is mandatory. Before I headed down, the team acknowledged those who made the hard decision to turn back and let us reach the summit.
Going down the steep slopes required the same level of discipline as coming up. Except for a small crevasse that had appeared on the trail, I was lucky to descend back with no surprises. We managed to reach Camp Schurman in half the time. Later that day, we practiced crevasse rescue and I got to descend a crevasse and climb out of it. Needless to say, I had to be pulled up.
The next morning we packed up our gear and headed back. Glissading down the inter glacier was a great way to lose elevation and get back to civilization. I celebrated with a can of Mt.Rainier lager before driving back to basecamp.
“It is not the mountain we conquer but ourselves.” — Edmund Hillary
I did not conquer the mountain. On the contrary, I was lucky to summit it. Rather than feel proud, I felt humbled and less entitled. I was filled with gratitude for the mountain, the weather, the guides, and the people who were rooting for me. The journey made me realize a few things that I will apply to my life going forward—
Never be afraid to dream big.
The path is often fraught with detours, setbacks, and failures. Perseverance is key.
While achieving the dream is the finality, the journey is what counts. Be present, consistent, and most importantly enjoy every bit of it.
Mentors, teams, family, and friends are essential to success.
Mt.Rainier has a special place in my heart. Every time I recollect my experience or catch a glimpse of the mountain, my confidence is renewed and I am inspired to stand tall against the weather.
I am grateful to the guides — JM Gorum, Jordan Cargill, Alex Halliday, and Ross Lindell, and to the fellow climbers. Climbing Mt.Rainier can be dangerous and potentially deadly. Please go with a guide service.
Wonderfully written and inspiring read!
Wonderful experience! Well put as well!